we’ll always have paris, unless dad screws it up

A Night at the OperaTravel’s a humbler. Just when you think you’ve got it all figured out, that you know which train leaves from which platform, which color gas pump dispenses diesel, and which cheek to lead with when doling out the compulsory French air kisses, well, that’s when some random grandma in the post office slaps you in the grill for playing Post Office. Sorry, ma’am – thought I knew you.

Of course, I’m speaking metaphorically here, though lord knows I’ve regularly made an ass of myself with the whole air kissing thing. You really are supposed to lead with different cheeks depending on where you are in the country, though it’s important to remember that they are always face cheeks (and no, I haven’t made that particular mistake yet, though I sense the reader’s lack of confidence here).

Fontenayyyyy....hohhhhhh....hayyyyyI’m never sure how well I need to know someone before I throw down with les bisous (French for the aforementioned air-kissies; apparently passing acquaintances work if you haven’t seen them for a couple weeks), how much lip contact you make on ye olde cheek (zip, zilch, nada), and how loud a smack you’re supposed to make when getting smoochy with the atmosphere (apparently not the Miss Piggy-esque lip fart I’ve been known to blast into unsuspecting ears). Throw in my lack of confidence on the question of cheek contact and you’ll understand why most social situations find me quavering under the buffet table, rocking back and forth while hugging my knees. Continue reading

the jazz advantage

When we pulled up stakes in California and lit out for the territory for a year in France, we had some tough decisions to make about what found its way into the suitcases and what did not. Once you get past the bare necessities – clothes, toothbrushes, and ukuleles – that’s when the hard decisions start.

This Has Nothing To Do With This Post

One more thing not in our suitcases — hot air balloons.

For example, despite a crafty late-game, end-around maneuver from Kinsey, pets were pretty much off the list. And, to be fair, from the sounds of it, our cats didn’t much appreciate being zipped into that rolling suitcase, anyway.

For my part, refried beans had barely made it onto my list before they were summarily dispatched…another early casualty of Kristanne’s controversial – some might even say draconian – “One Heaton, One Suitcase, Zero Dissent” policy. As we enter Month Eight here in the Burrito Wasteland of France (not its official name), with its green bean “salsas” and “sour cream” that looks and tastes suspiciously like yogurt, I do believe ole Chairman Mom-Tse Kristanne may be rethinking that particular Great Leap Forward. Fortunately for us, the impending (not to mention long-awaited) arrival of Grandparents Rosalie & Calvin and their clanking suitcases full of Rosarita’s finest should be cause both for celebrations here in Grenoble and a whole lot of puzzled Customs Agents in Paris.

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french: not as easy as I think

One of the biggest benefits of being an iffy French speaker in a French-speaking country is that when reading or hearing French, you can usually persuade yourself to place your full faith in whatever translation best suits your particular needs at any given moment. You’ve got the English speaker’s appreciation of cognates, a few dimly recalled Latin roots in your back pocket, and possibly the benefit of being highly self-suggestible (viz. that whole La Grande Dangereuse episode from a few weeks back).

Hey, I Like Rivers!

Hey, I Like Rivers!

This willingness to believe what needs to be believed can be both an advantage and a liability.  Take, for example, that sign at right with the scary red circle and the daunting “SAUF RIVERAINS!” slogan and imagine it at the entrance to a charming little alley with a delightful little pastry shop at the other end. Perhaps they’re passing out free samples of all manner of buttery baked goodness, or perhaps it’s Free Red Wine For Americans day, it doesn’t really matter. The point is they have it, you want it, and you can’t get to it because of that pesky little sign.

Now, a French speaker knows that “Sauf Riverains” means “Except Residents” and that only people who live there can drive down there and eat the implied free croissants and drink the theoretical free red wine. I, however, know that “sauf” means “except” and after that things get really hazy really fast. However, with the Magic of Misplaced Confidence, I can easily convince myself that “Sauf Riverains” almost certainly means “Except People Who Like Rivers” or “Except People Who Have Been To  A River When It’s Been Raining,” or even “Except You, Sid…Come on Down!” These are all in play.

I try to learn French, I really do, but frankly, it’s more difficult than I anticipated. Not only do they have words for everything, but most of those words appear to be pronounced in exactly the same way with meanings that can only be divined by context.

Cute Kids Eating Ski Food Don't Have to Be Mentioned in the Text to Get on the Page

Cute Kids Eating Ski Food Don’t Have to Be Mentioned in the Text to Get on the Page

Perhaps French people have furtive little hand signals designed to throw off non-native, would-be French speakers that they use to tell one another what they’re on about. For example, an elderly chap walking into the local boulangerie might throw a little old-school hand-jive as he enters to indicate that when he says “Je voudrais deux chaussons,” he means he’d like the chaussons one might eat for breakfast and not the ones he might wear to keep his feet warm around the house (or even the hunting trip he’s going on next week, the word for which also sounds quite similar to my calcified ears). Or perhaps a normal person would clue into the fact that someone in a bakery is likely not asking for a pair of slippers or the best way to field dress a wild boar and probably just wants a nice jammy pastry. Perhaps.

I think I had it in my head that with the proper tilt of my theoretical beret and perhaps a bit of Gallic flair in my carriage, well, it’d be a simple matter of just adding a suitably cinematic French accent to some implausible high-school Spanish and I’d more or less be kicking it Flaubert-style. Those rosy expectations have proven to be, shall we say, overly optimistic, often comically so. Also, did you know that most French people don’t use the term “kicking it Flaubert style,” either in English or in French? It’s true.

Not Actually a Member of the Worker's Party

Left-Handed Batter, Not Actually a Worker’s Party Member

So far, I have told a matronly innkeeper that I loved her (to be fair she had just brought us a really tasty rhubarb crisp), complimented a young woman realtor on her high availability, and, memorably, spent an entire baseball game yelling “Communist! Communist!” (“Gauchiste!”) at small children whose only transgression was to bat left-handed (“Gaucher,” alas). Figuring that last one out really went a long way towards explaining some of the looks from fellow parents in the stands. Apparently, when the French say “potato,” I say “Bolshevik.”

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getting plus beaux in lyon

Big Square, Big FunWelcome back to the Odyssey, where the weather’s unseasonably warm, the kids are wrapping up their second week of winter vacation, and the loaner cat is his usual mixture of crusty and cranky (“crustanky”?).

The kids have been on vacation since back when I could still tolerate hearing “Gangnam Style” without screwing up my eyes, clamping my hands onto my ears, and running screaming from the room while making obnoxious “la la la la la” sounds. Oddly enough, the kids’ tolerance shows no such signs of waning, and mechanized Korean rapping is still popping up at ever-more-regular intervals in what I’ll malapropically declare to be our ever-more-smaller apartment. Who knew that Kristanne could rap in Korean?

The Light That Is ShellfishOne of the nice things about the kids being on vacation is that the weekends have been mercifully free from the usual overwhelming crush of French athletics. Between Kinsey’s basketball, Quinn’s baseball and fencing, and my deepening jorkyball addiction, Saturdays and Sunday can fill rapidly. But, in usual French “All Together Now” fashion, when the kids are on vacation, everyone’s on vacation, including sports teams, French language class instructors, and the precisely dressed old people in our neighborhood who seem to do nothing but walk their dogs 12 times a day with jauntily deployed baguettes under their arms. Apparently, they’re on the payroll, too.

happiness is a plate of shellfish

happiness is a plate of shellfish

So, with the blank canvas of an open weekend spreading itself before us, the Heaton Family Painters set out for the fair city of Lyon to craft their masterpiece (Kristanne), leave their graffiti spray (the kids), or dribble their nonsensical Rorschachian ink blots (yours truly). The main thing was to get out there in the world and paint. And, yes, tortured metaphors are indeed a hobby. Trust me, you’ll be looking back at this paragraph fondly in about 2,000 words when I eventually switch to Korean rapping.

 

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les vacances d’hiver sont arrivé!

le collet d'allevardLiving in a foreign country, it can take some time to discern the patterns and rhythms governing everyday life. When are the banks open? When do the grocery stores close? What time does the baker gently chide me for my careless pronunciation, lack of vocabulary, and diminished sense of fashion?

The answer to that last question is “every time I order a baguette”, though my prickly boulangere has eased up some on the couture tips since I started casually draping the new scarf Kristanne got me for Valentine’s day before essaying my daily visit. For the other schedule questions, France eases difficulties by using the same one for the entire country. Everyone starts school on the same day. They all take the same two weeks for fall break and the same days for Christmas break. It’s a little bit like living on the world’s largest college campus, right down to the abundance of righteous political causes, emphasis on constant intellectual and physical activity, and the incredible proliferation of bicycles. There’s a charming “all together now” aspect to this, actually. You feel like you’re part of something larger…like a big team with cool accents and nifty scarves.

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look, my monkey can do rude gestures!

Temple of BoomThe Extreme Family Heaton is no stranger to road trips – we’ll saddle up the ole Partner Tepee and ride her for six hours at a stretch if need be, no questions asked, stopping only for rapid-fire bathroom breaks at dodgy French rest stops, more diesel, and perhaps the occasional top-off to our crucial chocolate/meat snack reserves (the car runs on diesel; the Heatons run on chocolate and meat snacks – don’t get these things confused or it’s a long wait for AAA and/or the French medical system depending on which direction you erred).

So, at this point, we’ve driven from the Alps to Paris more times than Napoleon – we know the warning signs that signal trouble with the troops. Diarrhea, dysentery, trench foot – everyone knows to keep an eye out for those (and who can forget the time Kristanne nailed down a typhus outbreak using only a handful of meat snacks and some Handi-Wipes? The woman’s a miracle-worker). But the real red flag? Delirium. That’s why we knew it was time to perhaps consider a break from today’s road trip to the lovely Roman town of Vienne when Quinn piped up loudly from the back seat, “Look! My monkey can do rude gestures!”

I'm sure they're just discussing books.

I’m sure they’re just discussing books.

And, sure enough, he could, too. It’s a long story and I don’t want to get into questions of blame (Kristanne’s fault) or guilt (all her – I’m pure like the driven snow), but somehow the kids were privy to a full-blown French Flip Off in traffic a couple weeks ago. The offending digit was not Kristanne’s, mine, or the monkey’s, but rather that of an otherwise unassuming young woman who was nearly plowed in the crosswalk with the light in her favor by someone committing the near-felony of Driving While French (that’s a topic for another day). So, rather than let the kids think that that’s just the way French women use crosswalks – screaming in anger while brandishing their middle fingers at the sky – Kristanne went ahead and, uh, annotated the scene for the kids, explaining that this was a rude gesture conveying extreme displeasure, not to be used in polite company. Which, of course, explains why Quinn was having a merry old time having his stuffed monkey toy make the same gesture for our driving pleasure.

How Much Is That Family At the Temple?

How Much Is That Family At the Temple?

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